Juanito’s Travels 50 yr backpacker – Bangkok Grand Palace, Buddha give me strength & buying weed legal pt23

lotus flower grand palace BangkokI’ll put a bit of a pause on trying to catch up on my 1995 journey, I’m almost there with India, just got Varanasi to go, but I’d like to focus on where we’re at right now – Thailand.

Well, we’re on the Island of Koh Chang, in some jungle restaurant where our very basic jungle bungalow is, listening to bird and monkey sounds, with a relatively cool breeze (especially compared to the hellish April heat of Bangkok) recovering from a night of BBQ, weed and massage after spending a few days in Bangkok visiting the temples of Wat Phra Kaew (AKA the Temple of the Emerald Buddha), Wat Pho (temple of the reclining Buddha) and Wat Arun, then a day trip to Ayutthaya plus the Lollipop Marijuana Dispensary around Khao San Road.

That sentence probably needed a few full stops.

So Bangkok. It’s flipping hot in April. 38 degrees maximums everyday we were there with the temperature barely getting below 28 any night. Who is crazy enough to travel to Thailand at this time of year? Looking around, there were plenty of us!

Our first day we headed to Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha – but also includes the Grand Palace). Despite the heat, it literally blew our minds. We managed to accidentally time it so we could start a free tour at 10 am. But before even getting into the temple we had to cover up to show respect to the holy location. My wife was fine with her shirt and long pants, but I, with my shorts, had to buy the common Thai elephant pants you see tourists everywhere wearing to temples. You can buy these just inside the gate for 200 baht, you can get them cheaper at the nearby markets along the river so perhaps drop off there  first if you want to save yourself 50-80 baht. You can get hats there as well, which I wished I’d done before going on the two-hour tour, the top of my head has never baked so much in the sun, it felt like a cheese toastie under a grill. I had to run between the temple buildings, seeking what little shade I could.

Many superlatives for Wat Phra Kaew, being Bangkok’s number one tourist attraction there’s little I have to add apart from a few pictures I have here. There’s more on my instagram:  greenpaddocks.

wat phra kaew - emerald buddhawat phra kaew - emerald buddha, Bangkok

The next day we headed to Wat Pho (temple of the reclining Buddha) and Wat Arun – which is across the river from Wat Pho. Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho are pretty close to each other, and an easy walk (not so easy in the heat mind you) and ferry ride from Khao San Road. Then the ferry should cost around 30 Baht each and you can get tickets from the wares, just tell them where you want to go and hand over the cash and they sort you out on the right boat. Can’t remember the name of the pier closest to Khaosan Road and it’s hidden away down a little alleyway so good luck finding it! Best to search the directions on google maps then zoom in on the river for your closest stop. My wife says it’s stop 13! And the stop for Wat Phra Kaew is possibly number 9, like that great Yoko Ono/ John Lennon song, number 9, number 9, number 9, number 9.

The temple of the Emerald Buddha is a place of quiet contemplation. One of the few places you can’t take photos so you can just sit quietly and look at the walls and the very small emerald Buddha. I find I get a lot more out of just looking than taking photos (I have a complaint about the attitude of others further down!). The thing to remember at these temples is that they are actively used by the Thai, so in amongst the tour groups and millions of cameras you also have Thai Buddhists coming along to take refuge in the Buddha, in the Sangha, in the Damma (the Buddha, community and the truth as told by the Buddha).

The next day we headed to the reclining Buddha, Wat Pho. Again with the photos I won’t sort them out yet as we took heaps of live pictures and they don’t upload easy, again, check out my Instagram page/ site, whatever you call it.

At Wat Pho, I first went to the toilet, which is usually uneventful, but this time I walked in and stood at the urinal and suddenly some dude was massaging the back of my neck, I was halfway through peeing so I didn’t stop and turn around until I was done and there was some guy asking for money. Now it should be red flags when a guy comes up and massages you in the toilet while you’re doing a pee. And yes, the guy was searching my backpack as I peed which I didn’t notice until I went out, he didn’t find anything but bottles of water. So, word of advice, don’t keep anything more valuable in your backpack than bottles of water, and, perhaps more importantly, before you go for a pee – guys of course but similar for women – check that there is no one else in the toilets, just have a quick scan, and then if you’re a guy peeing while standing, pee so you can see the rest of the toilets. Look, the massage was pretty good so I’m not sure why the pickpocketing thief doesn’t just go get a legit job doing that, but anyway, life choices. We watched the guy following many other tourists in the morning from behind trying to get into their backpacks, so, just water and clothes in backpacks, no wallets, money, phones – because one day you’ll be tired and you’ll turn and before you know it, it’ll be gone! Impermanence, just like the Buddha said!

Like Wat Phra Kaew there are active temples used by Thai Buddhists. My wife and I sat there at one in Wat Pho where buddhist monks were chanting and praying, but unlike Wat Phra Kaew’s temple of the Emerald Buddha, you can take photos at this place, so after a few minutes of peace we had people barging in, cameras already going filming video blogs, taking photos, including with very noisy cameras. The monks didn’t seem to be disturbed, but, Buddha give me strength, I found the whole thing annoying and when a tourist fresh from a cruise ship stood over me ignoring my presence below I pushed him off and waved him away. He didn’t care, the photo is more important. Before I blew my top in front of the Buddha I ran out and waited outside while my wife continued her quiet contemplation.

I had a similar experience in the hall containing the giant golden reclining Buddha. I was standing quietly contemplating the statue, as far into a corner I could be, when a German guy, fresh off a giant cruise ship said, ‘can you please move? I want to take a photo’, and I shrugged my shoulders and said, ‘no, I came to look, not take photos’, and very sarcastically the guy said ‘thanks’, his face reflecting the tragedy of not getting a photo. Tourists suck, including me. One day into our round the world tour and I can see we can see photos are what’s driving us now and we can’t enjoy things without getting a pic. The more ‘no photo’ signs around the better.

I’m in no way superior to these run in and click and run out type of tourists. I know the people I find annoying are just people not necessarily trying to be annoying, they are just people trying to take millions and millions of photos without looking at a single thing. It’s not exactly a new phenomenon, and I need to learn patience. This is just the world. As they said in my vipassana meditation courses. You can either complain about the heat, or you can take out an umbrella and protect yourself from the sun. Still rules to help us all enhance our travel experiences without always trying to catch it forever, wouldn’t go astray. Everything is impermanent, these words, your pictures, ourselves. We all arise and then pass away. Not accepting impermanence  leads to people like me being annoyed at tourists in front of golden Buddha statues and people like the German being annoyed at people like me who won’t step out of the way of a golden Buddha for him to take a photo with his wife in front of the golden Buddha because he’s rushing around for the three hours the giant tour ship give him in Bangkok. And I got a great photo of the giant Buddha without anyone in front of it ;).

reclining buddha wat pho, Bangkok

And with that display of hypocrisy, and attempt at insight, that’s almost as much blogging as I’ll do today. Later in the day, like I flagged above, I went to the Lollipop Marijuana Dispensary and bought marijuana for the first time in my life – legally! That’s a big leap from the Buddist musings and breaks one of the five central precepts of Buddhism: abstaining from getting intoxicated. I know, I know. I’ll work on it. But from a law and order perspective legalising weed is a good move. Being the son of an alcoholic I can tell you legally available alcohol causes many more problems than weed. But just as I wouldn’t support banning beer, I don’t support banning weed. Back in 1995 I could have been thrown in jail for smoking weed. Too many people have gone to jail for smoking and selling weed. Sure, regulate it but use your resources for better things. We have ways of living like Buddhism and its five precepts, which are, roughly: abstain from killing; abstain from stealing; abstain from lying (and gossiping); abstain from sexual misconduct; and yes, abstain from getting intoxicated! These are great, and some are much easier to keep than others, like the first four ones – apart from gossiping, I looooove to gossip – but you know, for sure give up drinking and smoking weed, but we’ve seen what problems we have when we make these things completely illegal! We’re not perfect. 

And here’s a plug for Lollipop! Great service at a reasonable price! And again, applause to the Thai government for trying something different, I hope despite some teething problems they continue allowing recreational weed use with strict regulations!

lollipop marijuana Bangkok khoa san road

The next evening, after our day trip to Ayutthaya, I got stoned and posted pictures of myself on Instagram buying weed, because you know what, it’s legal, so go blow it out your bum if you’re worried LOL 😉 I’ll write more about Ayutthaya and Koh Chang in the next few blogs, and I may, at some stage, get around to finishing off the earlier 1995 blog about India, and also my last time in Thailand on an Island. Mental note for me as I’m liable to forget.

Juanito’s Travels 50-Yr-Backpacker 1995 Dublin, Temple Bar, the Chaparrita girls, Wicklow Pirates of the Penzance, and more Inisglas community Wexford 1995 BlogPt10

The Spanish girls nicknamed the house, in Blackpitts Dublin, La Chaparrita. I think it was mainly Agatha’s idea, she seemed the most enthusiastic when it came to zany ideas, and less zany ideas. She just liked ideas in general I think. Chaparrita means short woman. Indeed Agatha and Ines were both short statured people. I can’t recall the name of the Basque woman, I didn’t chat to her very much, but she was a bit taller.

The La Chaparrita household wasn’t entirely Spanish. Even out of the 3 Spanish girls (women) living there, Ines was the only one who truly considered herself Spanish. She was from Madrid. Agatha was from Barcelona and vehemently committed to being referred to as Catalan. She could have been a character out of George Orwell’s Homage to Catalonia, which was one of my favourite reads. She wouldn’t teach me any Spanish, preferring I try and pick up the Catalan language. The Basque woman was more ambivalent about her nationality but definitely considered herself Basque first and Spanish second. There was a German, I’ve also forgotten her name. My memory of her was that she was more of an average height and had no obvious link to Spain. And there was Irish Guy, also can’t recall his name but I think he was the one who created the connection with the Inisglas biodynamic community as his mate regularly travelled between Inisglas and Dublin. He was a little taller than me I think, quite a gentle fella, and the only fella of the house.

So while La Chaparrita wasn’t entirely Spanish, 3 out of the 5 inhabitants held Spanish passports and could speak Spanish even though 2 of the 3 strongly preferred their mother tongues and cultural identities.

The household wasn’t that far from Temple Bar, a bar and restaurant district of Dublin. They were near some big church or cathedral. When I used to get into Dublin I’d just walk to their house, which took me maybe 20 minutes or half an hour. I never took much notice of the times or distance back then. But it wasn’t far from the bus or train station. Looking at Google maps around 27 years later, I see it was St Patrick’s Cathedral, a few blocks from the house, that I used to use as a landmark to find their place. You used to have to resort to just techniques before smartphones.

I became a regular visitor to their house, popping up from Wexford every few weeks. Sometimes I’d wait for the Inisglas community van to go up to the markets on Saturdays and get a lift with them, see some bread and then head to their house. Sometimes I’d just hitch a lift. People were pretty up to giving people lifts in those days so I usually didn’t have to wait too long. I think a couple of times I forked out the money to take the train back as it wasn’t as easy to get a lift the other way.

The girls mostly worked at the Elephant & Castle in Temple Bar. They get much for working there. Around £40 a week plus tips, from memory. I think the tips pretty much doubled their wage though most weeks. They were flush with cash and were appreciative of their mothers’ food packages that appeared every now and again from Barcelona, the Basque Country or Madrid. I think the Basque woman had a bit more money and may have had her own room. I think she may have also had a boyfriend. Agatha, Ines and the German shared a room. I’d sleep on the couch when I visited most times.

I usually didn’t make pre-arrangements to come up to Dublin. I tried to call a few times but they’d always say, just come up! So I’d just be bored at Inisglas one day and then get up and go to Dublin for a night or 2. Mostly mid-week when I didn’t have any bakery chores. I never really stopped doing my bread making activities while at Inisglas but I did neglect the vegetable gardening part a bit and became more of a casual labourer supporting Frankie to pick veggies and spread compost as required. I also helped Stuart with the cow milking many evenings. Though there were only 2 cows to milk so sometimes he’d just do that himself, especially when he was grumpy and wanted to be alone. Which was not too uncommon, him being a poet and all.

If I couldn’t find anyone at La Chaparrita house I knew I could go off to the Elephant & Castle where they’d usually be working and just get a drink while waiting for them to finish a shift, or just walking around Temple Bar for a while until they finished. Sometimes Irish Guy would be there by himself and he’d let me in and I could dump the small backpack I usually brought with me, which just contained some underwear, a new shirt and whatever bread, yoghurt and farm produce I had at hand at the time. It would usually be enough to contribute to cooking up something for the household during my visit, which was appreciated due to their poverty. It certainly wasn’t a spiritual poverty and they mostly displayed a bubbly zest for life. It reminded me of another of my favourite books by George Orwell, Down and Out and Paris and London, except maybe a We’re Poor but Don’t Care, We’re Still Up for a Party in Dublin version. One day finances were so bad that Agatha made lettuce soup. I’m pretty sure that’s not even a real thing, but we didn’t care.

I mainly hung out with Ines and Agatha. We’d hang out in St Stephen’s Green park when it was sunny, which was increasing in frequency once summer set in, just smoking and chatting, and maybe reading for hours on end. Or we’d just walk around exploring the place. I loved my time with Agatha, we felt like real soulmates. She told me she’d come to Dublin because the conditions in Barcelona were so bad and that her family just expected her to get married and have babies. It seemed like she lived in a high rise building complex there and that you were never far from a neighbours argument.

One day I took a walk around with Irish guy who showed me some Dublin street markets and gave me a bit of a potted history of the Irish rebellion which included showing me bullet marks at the main Post Office, which I’d still on occasions visit to see if my bloody Irish passport had shown up from the Irish embassy in London, after being sent from Canberra, Australia. It’d been missing for around 3 months at that stage.

When everyone was at work I’d sometimes wander around by myself, trying to find a decent coffee. Back in 1995 that was not that easy. And, having lived in Melbourne with access to some of the great cafes like Pelligrinis on Bourke Street and Tiamo’s on Lygon Street, I had high standards, even as a poor backpacker type. I tried Bewley’s coffee house on Grafton Street. It was the worst coffee I’d had at a place that claimed to make good coffee that I’d ever had in the world. They had a suggestion box and I suggested they learn to make coffee. I’m sure they’ve improved by now. Well, they still exist at least.

I found a second hand bookstore, that was in an old building that was on the River Liffey, which did better coffee, plus I could browse books. I don’t know if I ever bought a book, I feel like I was probably too stingy. Perhaps I bought Homage to Catalonia there. I’d like to think so. Perhaps I even bought Agatha one, if I didn’t I wish I had.

In the evenings, and days when the girls weren’t working, we’d party at the house. There was a fair amount of alcohol to be had and almost always some weed. I liked the weed the most and didn’t partake much of the alcohol. We did go out to a pub or two here and there, but I don’t think we stayed long. On one occasion we were in a pub and I saw on the TV that Prince Charles was visiting, which was the end of May. It was a pretty big deal as Lord Mountbatten, Charles’ great uncle, was assassinated by the I.R.A in the late 70s. I think that could have been a Friday – the day I saw that Charlie was visiting, it must have been before I took on the baking duties at Inisglas, which took up all my Fridays. I remember there being an awful lot of vomit on the streets of Dublin on the way back to La Chaparrita that evening.

At other times, when Charles wasn’t visiting, we’d just go have something to eat at the Elephant & Castle as the girls got some free food or discounts. Once we went to an illegal bar up on the top floor of some two-storey building. Because it was illegal they couldn’t open the windows so it was probably the smokiest, most disgusting place I’d ever been on earth. Yes, they smoked indoors back then, and I was probably exposed to the equivalent of 300 cigarettes in the space of 2 hours. But because it was illegal we could at least pass a joint around. I think I got sick from the smoke and asked if we could bail.

My visits became a cycle of smoking, drinking, chatting, and eating and then eventually crashing on the couch for me, and the girls in their bedrooms. Sometimes we’d go hire some videos. I always wanted to see Pulp Fiction, but the girls had all seen it several times so it wasn’t until upon my return to Australia sometime the following year, or even perhaps the year after that, that I got to see it. Apart from videos we’d also listen to hours of music, singing, dancing and shooting the shit. They were a ball.

I think I usually only stayed a couple of nights and then headed back to Inisglas in the morning so I could be back before dark.

On one occasion it took longer than usual to hitchhike from Wexford to Dublin and I arrived around 6 PM. I went to La Chaparrita and found Ines, hurriedly packing her mochilla (backpack).

‘Juanito!’ she said and kissed me on both cheeks in the Spanish way. ‘I’m going to Wicklow to see a musical. Do you want to go? We have to leave now.’

‘Sure!’, I said. And we literally left that moment. Somehow made our way to a country house in the nearby county Wicklow where Ines knew a few people. Turns out the people Ines knew were putting on the Pirates of the Penzance, the Gilbert and Sullivan show, out on a farm in County Wicklow.

They had a stage set up in front of a pond. It’s possible Ines and I got stoned before the show behind some bushes, who knows. Sounds like something we used to do. We managed to get there just before the show started, as the sun set. It was the craic as the Irish say, though I felt a bit like a dirty hippy surrounded by slightly more refined musical going Irish gentry type people.

It turns out Ines was keen on one of the Irish blokes whose family owned the farm where the Pirates of the Penzance was performed. He was one of the pirates I think. Or perhaps even a very model of a modern Major-General with information vegetable, animal, and mineral (he wasn’t as that fella was old and this guy was young).  It became apparent I was Ines’ wingman and I stepped back and let them have their dalliance. I’d grown fond of Ines so I was a bit disappointed she’d got together with Wicklow Pirate man, but at least I got to see a musical, which I’m pretty sure I didn’t pay for, and they put me up at the country house overnight before Ines and I headed back to Dublin the next day. We’ll at least I think we headed back together, she may have stayed on and ditched me like Tom Cruise did with Goose in Top Gun. Tragic. It wasn’t just a weekend hookup though, Ines and the Wicklow Pirate kept together at least for the time I was in Ireland. The bridesmaid role was set to continue the rest of my trip, but I didn’t know that then.

I was growing fonder of Agatha, and she seemed to be growing fonder of me. We’d often just hang out by ourselves, especially after Ines started spending more time with the Wicklow Pirate. We had similar philosophies on life, Agatha and I, and would often stay up to the early hours chatting. Sometimes we’d go to someone else’s house and hang out a bit, I don’t remember much of that, but I think we’d go to another Spanish person’s house near some canals. Her name may have been Bee, or something similar. We used to call my Irish granny from County Sligo Bee as well, it was short for Bridget.

Agatha and I went to see a Lesbian violent travel film called Butterfly Kiss at some point. It was some sort of arthouse film, which premiered at some film festival in Dublin. I think we may have seen at least one other film together, maybe even at the same festival. We were all into the independent alternative scene. I’m not sure if she even ended up visiting Inisglas again one time. I’d like to think so, perhaps for our Inisglas festival we hosted towards the end of summer, but thinking it doesn’t mean it actually happened.

At one point towards the end of summer I picked up a fair amount of weed in Wexford that someone had been growing. I walked into the kitchen at Inisglas one day and there were a couple of very giggly residents there. They offered me some of the cause of their gigglyness, giving me a decent sized takeaway bag. It was good shit and the next time I visited La Chaparrita we had a really big party time, courtesy of that biodynamic magic. I’m sure Steiner wouldn’t approve unless the shit was first buried in cow horns under the full moon and left for a few months so it would pick up all the cosmic vibes.

I felt free and alive during those months. I had good friends, good times. I never really needed to spend much money either. It was the way life should be.

Meanwhile my life at Inisglas continued. I started doing a bit of writing, with the help of Master Poet Stuart, and I think I actually improved a little, though I don’t think I’ve saved any of that work. I think I may have sent the occasional letter to Agatha, or at least some notes about her in a diary I’ve long forgotten, and back to the family in Australia. I’d call my mum every month or so courtesy of the special phone card my dad had given me before leaving, just to say I was alive and kicking. I also sent a roll of film back to them to be processed. It was like posting pics on Instagram before it existed, only much less instantaneous and with more chemicals involved.

As the summer went on I started to get itchy feet and thoughts increased of moving on from Inisglas. I mean, I was still enjoying the place and we had some craic to be sure – which wasn’t, as I originally thought, the crack cocaine – but the Irish term for fun. I’m sure that’s a common confusion.

On a few occasions, when it was warm, we took the kids down to the beach and spent a few hours there. I remember chatting with Nora on the Wexford beach for a while, drinking homemade cordial and then going for a bit of a swim in the cold Irish Sea.

On one occasion most of the guys from Inisglas took the community row boat down the River Slaney to the pub where I’d stopped on my first full day in Wexford on the way to Inisglas.  We had a few joints on the way, perhaps courtesy of Ross, who’d somewhat warmed to me and who had some secret weed grow plot about that I never came across despite my frequent walks into the forest. It could have been beyond the nettle forest, or close to the border of the rubbish dump that was adjacent to the property and which was the cause of a massive fly outbreak that meant we resorted to putting sticky fly traps in the kitchen for a few months that would be covered in a few hours.

But back to Ross, he had warmed to me to the point where he offered me some great advice that I’ll always remember.

‘John’, he said, ‘never drive a truck with drugs in it between Amsterdam and Britain. When we were importing from Amsterdam we’d occasionally set up a young dopey hippy like you to get busted by the cops.’

He went on to explain that they’d put a small amount in the dopey hippy’s truck and contact the customs people. ‘While they were busy busting the poor cunt for the small amount of drugs another truck would drive through with heaps in it, unchecked.’

It seemed Ross may have had some remorses around setting up naive hippies, and took me for the type who might fall for such a thing. But after my Bangkok Gem scam incident I was much less trusting of people anyway. And, even without being ripped off, that sounded like a seriously dodgy proposition anyway so I would certainly have avoided it. I’m quite confident in that. But I still appreciated Ross looking out for me. You didn’t want to get on the bad side of Ross. One day one of Michael’s Danish friends from the nearby disabled support community tried to get Inisglas to put money in to support their activities and Ross, smelling a rat, fairly violently reacted to the guy. He didn’t do anything physical, but the guy I’m sure shat himself, after getting a verbal serve from Ross, figuratively speaking, if not actually.

Anyway on the way to the pub in the row boat we saw a seal. On the way back up the Slaney River (which sounds like the title of an Irish folk drinking song) we were more stoned and more drunk and it was dark, and we were singing and then I looked out to the bank and I said: ‘Hey it seems like we’re not moving’.

Frankie, Stuart, Michael, Jay, and perhaps even Ross, looked over and there was some discussion on whether we were moving or not. I mean we were rowing so we should be going forward, but yes indeed it did seem like our efforts weren’t getting us anywhere. So Jay put the oar down and he said, ‘I think we’re on some sand bank’. And then he put his foot over and said, ‘yes, we are on some sand bank’. So we got all out and pushed ourselves off and continued rowing and singing all the way back to Inisglas.

On another occasion we’d all gone to a pub in Wexford and Stuart and I walked the few kilometres home in the dark ourselves, maybe leaving the others there for a bit longer. We had some deep and meaningful discussion that night I feel, by the light of the moon as we traversed the lanes between Wexford town and The Deeps.

Michael and I hitched down to Rosslare Harbour one night just because we were bored after doing a day’s baking, which Michale was now helping out with. We ended up inviting ourselves to some party at someone’s house and then trying to see if anyone would let us crash at their place. When it became apparent no such offerings were afoot I took my sleeping bag and headed to the beach leaving Michael behind to party some more. He joined me an hour or so later having had no success to convince neither man nor woman to give him a bed for the night. We had one of those cold and uncomfortable beach sleeps for a few hours and then got up and hitched back to Inisglas the next morning. I think Michael had wanted to get away as he’d recently been back to Denmark with his girlfriend, who worked at the same nearby disabled support community that the other Danish guy who had managed to piss off Ross worked at. He was meant to be staying at his girlfriend’s house but they somehow managed to break up on the flight over, so he just ended up sleeping on the street for 3 nights and then heading back to Ireland.

He wasn’t the only one getting rejected. But, perhaps more of that after. For there were a few other changes afoot at Inisglas.